All Bar One, 124 High Street, Tel. 258991

Reviewed
Mar 2004

Having discovered the great food offered by All Bar One while in London during a vacation, I have now become a regular at the Oxford version. It would be easy to overlook All Bar One as being simply another chain bar, rather than a restaurant, and the view from the street is of its long bar displaying various wines, and the large "over-21s only" sign. However, once inside, there are actually a large number of tables for enjoying a meal.
I have become a fan of the sharing plates available in the evening, at the affordable price of one for £4, two for £7.50 and three for £11. The selection offered includes hummus with a pile of pitta bread, tiger prawns and a Thai dip, spicy meatballs, and satay chicken. These can be added to by a (huge) bowl of chips for £1.95, or a selection of breads with olives and sundried tomatoes accompanied by balsamic vinegar and olive oil for £4. For those (men!) with larger appetites, a variety of "big plates" are offered, including a beef burger in ciabatta with chips, sausage and mash, chicken and pesto pasta and giant mushrooms with asparagus. These larger dishes come in at around £7-10. At lunchtimes the fare is slightly altered, with more smaller options, such as soup and sandwiches at about £4-6. All Bar One naturally also offers a large selection of wines and beers from around the globe, with the wines starting from around £9. The service when I have visited has generally been very good, although at the weekends it can get very crowded, which means that a long wait at the bar to order food can follow. It also tends to get quite smoky in the evenings, which may be a problem for some during a long wait at the bar. However, the convenient High Street location, affordable prices, and tasty food make All Bar One a great option for a group night out or a long boozy lunch.

Victoria Head