BABY 213 Cowley Road. Telephone: 794726

Having read The Guardian's recent review, it seemed only right and proper to investigate whether their praise was justified or merely the enthusiasm of drug-addled media types. It was in this spirit of enquiry that my companion and I wandered through "newly fashionable East Oxford" to visit Baby.

I was in a bad mood when we arrived so we avoided the braying clientele in the retro bar downstairs and went straight up to the restaurant: a bright room with high ceilings and a beautiful arched window from which we gawped at the fag end of Cowley Road. The décor is understated: mirrors, lovely shell-like lamps and a huge picture of a cheesecake.

The menu, my companion ventured, is a mixture of French and Pacific Rim. I plumped for lots of protein because my brain wanted soothing, but if I had been happier I might have had something lighter, perhaps the prawns followed by Salad of the Sun and then sorbet. Instead, I started with deep-fried brie, which tasted rather synthetic; my friend chose more wisely with the grilled feta and fig relish. I followed with the Aberdeen steak, which was perfectly cooked, although the waitress told me the braised hock of ham was also delicious. The gentleman's stuffed chicken thigh was a work of art, which he devoured with his usual gusto.

Meanwhile we drank several glasses of good wine (very reasonably priced; between £9 and £14 a bottle) and smoked Lucky Strikes (bring your own). By the time the peach crème brulee and caremelised bananas arrived we were very full but we still managed to gobble them up.

This is a sweet place and the waitresses were very attentive throughout. If you want a break from the fag end feeling of the Cowley Road but can't manage more than a stroll, Baby promises a sedate ambience, excellent food and no dark side.

3 courses for 2, with wine and coffee, came to £51.

Katie Joice 11.5.00