Browns

5-11 Woodstock Road

Browns was the only place we could find to eat in Oxford at ten o clock at night after a theatre performance. This immediately worked in its favour, for the only alternative, at the other extreme, had been the kebab van. Hence, going from the ridiculous to the sublime, I began with the grilled king prawns marinated in garlic, chilli, coriander and olive oil. These were sublime, although obscenely peppery, leaving me requiring a finger bowl and several napkins. He started with a caesar salad, which, as caesar salads go, he said, was good.

We had also ordered garlic bread, and were looking forward to its arrival with some anticipation, when an inordinately large bread basket appeared with two inordinately small, floppy and altogether rather pathetic-looking slices of garlic bread crouched in the middle. The look of disappointment in our starving faces was obvious and, we hoped, encouraged some sense of guilt in the waitress.

To follow I had goats cheese salad with rocket pesto, which admittedly could hardly fail to please a hardened goats cheese lover such as myself. The rocket salad accompanying th dish went well with the cheese, but the bread was a little stale, and I could have done with more pesto. He had roast rack of lamb, described as herb-crusted in the menu. Served with green beans, he pronounced it delicious but diminutive. He could have done, he said, with another three. The chips accompanying the dish were chunky and very tasty, and soon demolished.

Dessert filled the final gap as both of us indulged in the hot fudge brownie and ice-cream. The calories are truly worth this gorgeous concoction of nutty brownie, rich chocolate sauce and creamy ice-cream. Meanwhile the atmosphere had dwindled to a pleasing late-night langour and despite the hour, we did not feel we had to rush to our meal.

For £45.95 with two glasses of wine the price was high but not too high. The evening was enjoyable, the food satisfying, and the service prompt. Just give us more garlic bread....

Jane Labous