Cherwell Boathouse Restaurant

off Bardwell Road, off Banbury Road Tel: 552746

Not just “the place where you get the punts from”, the Cherwell boathouse also comprises a decent restaurant. Tables can either be inside the restaurant or, during the summer months, on the terrace. My party and I opted for the latter which, being a warm summer evening, was definitely the better option and also presented a lovely view of the river. The atmosphere was sophisticated but not pretentious and the service was incredibly welcoming and friendly, albeit a little slow. There is a set menu which changes regularly along with some daily specials. Prices vary according to the time of eating; £23.50 for evenings, £21.50 for weekend lunches and £19.50 for weekday lunches, and are extremely reasonable for the quality of food presented. The salmon, shrimp and mixed herb fish cake appeared to be the most popular starter that evening. About the size of a large scotch egg, it had a very “rustic” style, containing large chunks of fish and was complemented very well by a red pepper coulis. Another of our party opted for the char-grilled asparagus and duck egg salad. Served during the asparagus season, this dish was a real winner although the flavours were slightly overpowered by the excessive amounts of balsamic vinegar it was dressed with. I opted for the pan fried breast of wood pigeon which was cooked well and came with a thick wild mushroom sauce. My main course was the pan fried fillet of beef (special’s menu, £2.50 supp.). The horseradish mousse served with it provided an interesting alternative to the usual horseradish sauce straight out of the jar. The only criticism of this dish was the fact that I ordered it rare and it came only slightly pink: not what you would expect from a restaurant that claims to be influenced by French cooking. The slow roasted belly pork was incredibly succule

nt and was served with a butternut squash mash which had a wonderful bright orange colour. The vegetarian of our group was only given one option of main course but the Roquefort cheese tart tatin she was served was large, good quality and obviously not just an afterthought as in many restaurants. The wine list was extensive and although we only opted for a bottle of the house red (£10.50 a bottle) it was of a high quality and hopefully indicative of the quality of some of the more expensive wines which cost up to £25 a bottle. Our choice of desserts were chocolate orange parfait (gorgeously rich) and a selection of British cheeses (interesting but in a slightly small portion).

This restaurant was perfect for supper outside on a summer evening however, in the winter I would not rate it as highly as the interior is nothing spectacular and the restaurant is at least 15 minutes walk from the centre of town. The choice is somewhat limited but menus are available from the restaurant’s website and so there is an option of checking beforehand.

By Oliver Rutt