Reviewed
13.09.03

The negotiated price for accompanying me on my weekend practice drive was an Italian meal. This seemed a good opportunity to try La Dolce Vita, whose (uncomfortable looking) red white and green seats I had noticed many a time on the Summertown pavement.

Seen from the outside, the restaurant appears to have more in common with the old 70s Italian family restaurants than the smooth new eaterias which dot Islington and now, sadly, North Oxford. This impression is borne out inside. Service is friendly and professional - centered on your enjoyment of the meal rather than maintaining corporate style. The questions as to whether we wanted salad or starters, had, I think to be taken in this spirit. The only hint of a house style was the opera and the attentiveness to 'signorina' - but who's complaining?

I haven't even mentioned the food yet. The menu featured an extensive range of starters such as salads and salumeria (Italian cold cuts/pork products, ie: prosciutto,
speck, sopressata). The main courses were mainly meat, with veal and chicken featuring prominently. There was a small but interesting range of pasta dishes and pizzas. There was a small selection of 4-5 vegetarian options. I had Ravioli with spinach and ricotta (£7.35) and my companion had Pizza Pescatore (£7.95 - main meals were all between £7 and £9.) My ravioli even made me think of the ones my friend Edda Bertani makes at home - a firm but soft pasta melting with the flavours of the filling. The pizza looked crisp. My request for more bread appeared to be forgotten by the very pleasant young waiter - they were very busy - but I survived by purloining the bread the pizza-eater had left so all was well.

We followed that with tiramisu - not on the written menu but on the oral one - for me (£3.80), and an espresso for him across the table (£1.05). My tiramisu was perhaps just a little out of balance with too much sugar and alcohol and too little texture of sponge. There were no complaints about the coffee. With bottled water (£2.75) the bill came to £23.50.

We emerged into Summertown and a clear night with the stars bright in the sky and bid good night to one of the waiters, who was taking a well-earned rest at the tricolore tables. A dolce vita indeed.

Sandhya Drew