Reviewed
Aug 03

Walk past Mario's and the warm smell of freshly baking focaccia will beckon you in and then trail along the pavement behind you as you attempt to resist. Walk past Mario's every evening on your way home, and before long you will know that resistance is indeed futile as you find yourself seated in East Oxford's answer to Gino's Spaghetti House - a homely, traditional, family run Italian restaurant that serves fantastic food at a good price. It will definitely not be a bad decision. The focaccia that lured you through the doors into the airy upstairs or cosy downstairs sections of the restaurant can be eaten as garlic bread (£1.90), garlic and cheese bread (£2.90) or as a base for the huge variety of pizzas. (Mario's special comes with many recommendations - artichoke, spicy sausage, tomato, ham and anchovy - £6.70.) And just as you found it impossible to ignore Mario's, once there, you will find it difficult not to salivate as plates of the garlic cheese bread are served to virtually every other customer there. You see, this bread is possibly the best garlic bread on the planet. I kid you not. And if bread with pizza seems too much to handle, there is a range of fantastic pasta dishes, from the traditional Spaghetti Bolognese to the to-die-for Fettucine alla Romana (£6.30) - a specialty of the Alfredo restaurant in Rome which combines peas, ham, cream and garlic. This dish, following my starter of Insalata del padrino (chick peas, tuna and lemon - £4.20), left little room for dessert on this occasion, but my friends all tormented me with spoonfuls of tiramisu and other Italian dolce. Wine is priced to suit every wallet, from £8.60 for house wine to £18 for Asti Spumante. Personally, I found the house red more than palatable, but if not wine, Nastro Azzurro is the Italian choice of beer, and it complements pretty much anything. There is plenty of choice, for vegetarians and meat eaters alike and if you are feeling especially brave, the Fettucine alla Diavolo will definitely give you a kick. It is not so named without reason - the hot red chillies and capers are a fiery mix. For a less familiar dish, try the Aubergine alla Mario, a house speciality or stacked aubergines and melted mozzarella, baked and golden. And if there is something you want but can't see on the menu, the chef also welcomes requests. As a bonus to anyone who doesn't want to walk all the way to Cowley Road or simply can't be bothered to cook, Mario's offer not only take-away pizza, but pasta dishes too. And, a more recent addition that regulars will be pleased to note - Mario now accepts credit cards. No excuses.

Abby Chicken