Last night I had the pleasure of enjoying a night of nostalgia at The Ivy, which recently unveiled its new 1917 set menu. A “culinary time capsule”, as they put it, the menu serves as a gastronomic tribute to the year of The Ivy’s debut in the West End, taking its guests on a tour of the original dishes on which the restaurant was built, with two courses for - what else? - £19.17. I made my way to their Oxford venue, prepared to be transported.
If you’ve not been to The Ivy before, think sophisticated fine dining with a lush, tropical ambience. The booths are plush, the lighting is soft, and the walls are lined with fresh green succulents; it’s the kind of laid-black elegance that has made The Ivy a regular haunt for A-list patrons since it began. But everyone deserves a little luxe, and the 1917 menu gives you the chance to indulge without putting too much strain on your wallet.
The menu begins with a choice of three aperitifs named for artistic luminaries that have graced The Ivy since its opening. There’s the understated Cecil Beaton spritz, a light, citrus-tinged take on a classic Hugo. Those with a sweet tooth will favour Vivien Leigh’s Elixir, a colour changing gin and pineapple concoction with a melting candy floss garnish and a flavour profile not unlike Parma Violets. But I have to give the gold to my favourite Teutonic bisexual with the Marlene Dietrich’s Glitz, in my opinion the star of the show. Its extensive ingredients might look a little busy, but don’t let that fool you - this drink gets its ratios absolutely right, the pear syrup, bitters and elderflower liqueur mixing beautifully for a subtle, complex sweetness.
I roped in a pescatarian friend of mine to get a wider lay of the land; they plumped for a hot smoked salmon rillette and had particularly high praise for its pairing with the pumpernickel bread, grounding the lightness of its peppery herb and basil garnishes with an earthy crunch. I went for a personal go-to starter, duck liver parfait, which benefited from a toasty crust of hazelnuts and a burst of fruit from the apple and apricot chutney.
The parfait itself was delightfully smooth, though I think a more salty element would have helped to round out the dish a little more. This was accompanied by lightly toasted brioche - while there wasn’t quite enough bread to square up to the parfait (it’s a generous portion and always a tricky balance to nail down), the staff were on hand with extra slices without even having to ask. While the parfait might have benefited from a hardier toast, say a Melba, to make the spread a bit more even, it’s an excellent choice especially for the price point.
With that it was onto the mains; a thinly beaten steak and pan-fried sea bream fillet, both with a generous helping of Parmesan truffle fries. The bream was the evening’s highlight for my guest, particularly the crispiness of the skin and the intriguing combination of smoky aubergine purée and shallot salsa, a vibrant and zippy alternative to the creamier sauces I’ve usually seen this fillet paired with and a refreshing, imaginative twist.
While they covered surf, I went for turf; the steak, festooned with whole red peppercorns and ordered pink, cut easily and was generously seasoned, elevated by a decadent mushroom sauce that harmoniously offset the spice. But of everything on the table, you would be hard pressed to top those fries - thickly cut with a delicate crisp, fluffy texture and actual pieces of truffle rather than truffle oil, this truly indulgent side is a must.
Capping off the night with dessert, I couldn’t pass up the crème brûlée. Presented in a copper pan, the serving is wonderfully moreish and a decent size for its price (desserts are an extra £5). The glaze was on the more delicate side, which I prefer, and the delightfully smooth custard within is a delight on the palate, like tucking your tongue into silk sheets. My companion was a little less impressed with the sticky toffee pudding, which had a denser, more stodgy sponge than expected and a sauce that seemed to have set quite thickly. But stacked up against the previous courses, this was only a minor stumble.
For the set price, the 1917 menu is an excellent option if you’re looking for a taste of luxury without emptying your coffers. These are dishes with premium ingredients and real thought put into their construction; it’s especially gratifying to see vegetarian options which don’t feel like afterthoughts, as can often be the case. There’s a nice sense of theatricality to proceedings as well - watching the candy floss melt into the Vivian Leigh elixir as the tonic water is poured; the sticky toffee pudding being revealed from beneath a cloche; there’s a showmanship to it that feels curated without being gimmicky. The staff were consistently attentive, keeping our water glasses full and serving each course promptly without being perfunctory. As an occasion meal that feels accessible without skimping on the indulgence, you really can’t go wrong.
The Ivy's 1917 set menu runs from 4th Jan - 9th Feb.