Reviewed
Aug 03

Loch Fyne is trendy. It's in Jericho, which is trendy. It has trendy décor, all glass panelling, chrome and pine, and a trendy menu. What is most surprising is that, being trendy, it's also pretty good. I went with a group of friends on a Tuesday evening to find that it is popular virtually every evening, but spacious enough to be private; our table was tucked away in the corner, with a good view of the trendy artwork.

The low point was the fact that one of my friends is vegetarian, and while fish-haters are adequately catered for, with a selection of prime sirloin steak, red deer venison, Islay sausages and duck, vegetarians are severely restricted; there are no veggie starters (he ordered a side salad instead) and there is only one vegetarian main course option, an unimaginative linguine with pesto and mozzarella (£7.95). While the food itself was fine, the choice was non existent. However, the rest of the group were more than satisfied, two opting for the succulent and tasty herb crusted cod, one for a pan fried fillet of bass and another for clam, pea and crab chowder. The chowder was disappointing, so I'm told, far too creamy, but the sea bass was perfectly cooked and had a good flavour. I went for the least fishy of fish - tuna steak, cooked in chilli and soy and served on a bed of noodles. I might start to like fish after all: it was excellent.

Main courses are mostly priced between £9-15, but the shellfish platter comes at £25.95 with crab or £39.95 with lobster. Scotland never struck me as particularly exotic before, but Bradan Rost and Loch Duart salmon are juxtaposed with oriental spiced bok choi or wasabi, unusual and tempting combinations. The vegetables on the other hand, were universally unappealing. The salads were terminally depressed, the mixed green veg greasier than John Travolta. As could be expected from this spinoff from the Loch Fyne fish delivery service which prizes itself on fresh produce, the choice and quality of all the fish ordered was impeccable, and the seafood bar at the front of the restaurant reminds customers that their meal is only a fishing line's throw away from swimming around. The sides really let it down, resulting in everyone filling up on bread.

The dessert menu was promising, but obviously sticky toffee pudding is everyone's first choice as there was none left by 9 o clock. We settled for ice cream - an extensive selection of mango, raspberry, blackcurrant or lemon sorbet or chocolate, vanilla, amaretto or strawberry ice cream (£2.95). Faultless, well presented and most of all, really really tasty. Coffee afterwards was pretty standard, but all the coffee served is fair trade, allowing you to feel slightly philanthropic while spending a fair amount on a meal out.

Abby Chicken