One of the long-standing city centre vans, Hassans tends towards gown rather than town, since its location is more convenient for colleges than for clubs, buses or taxis. Broad St provides a moment's respite from the crowds of Cornmarket, George St, and St Giles, as well as convenient and relatively secluded benches to consume your fodder upon.

Hassan is a friendly chap, and his food is generally good. The chicken has a decent marinade and good texture, doner is (as usual) unwholesome but tasty, and - probably most importantly - the chips are invariably well-cooked and appetising. Don't consider trying to finish them the following morning though - that which was previously crisp and appealing will now be sad and soggy in a little puddle of grease.

Salad seems fresh, featuring token slices of tomato and cucumber, and the sauces have decent taste and consistency. Chilli sauce is good and hot, and not too runny.

Part of the enduring appeal of Hassans is the prices - recommended is £2.50 for a generous dose of chips, cheese and chicken. Pick your fare carefully, though. They specialise in the popular stuff to the slight detriment of more obscure items - the hot dogs aren't great, nor is there anything very special for the vegetarian (baked potatoes have been known to be a little grey). If you want gastronomic variety, McCoy's or Houssain's will do you better; but if you're just looking for a large and tasty dose of protein and carbohydrate for your last 3 quid, Hassan's is a fine choice.

TOKE (The Oxford Kebab Experience) rating - Doner - 7, chicken - 8, sauces - 8, salad - 7, service - 8. Overall 76%

• Doner kebab - £3/£3.50 for large
• Chicken kebab - £3/3.50 for large
• Chips and cheese - £1.50

Also available: burgers, hot dogs, baguettes, spuds, etc.

Al Wilson, Dec 2005