Sited next to The Roving Gourmet, this van always seems to have a queue twice as long; and with good reason. Let’s just say that Houssain’s seems to be the acme of Kebab van achievement, and the pinnacle of the Oxford Kebab Experience. (Thanks for the fiver, mate.)

The doner meat was good, but was massively enhanced by the egg, which is quite possibly the very best in Oxford. The cheese is generous. Ask for chicken kebab and you actually get what appears to be genuine breast in large bite-size chunks, rather than the dubious-looking blims commonly found in lesser establishments. Apparently the owner is the son of the gent who runs the van opposite the Royal Oak. More about that van in a forthcoming installment.

The menu here is extensive, but not expensive. In addition, most vans don’t have any atmosphere (just people leaning over the gutter). At Houssain’s there is one, as a direct result of it being so popular. Incidentally, if you are recognised as a regular the proprietor will serve you round the back (no quicker than anybody else, but it’s a sort of status symbol). We reckon you should go out out of your way to try it.

• Doner kebab - £2.00-£2.30
• Chicken kebab - £2.50
• Mixed kebab - £3.00
• Egg - 30p
• Cheese - 30p
• Chips - 80p

Also available: beans, spuds, Duck à l’Orange, etc.

Jasper Smith and Tom Fryer